Electric
There are different ways to do this you can find all over the web. Fender has a pretty detailed page but it is not clear how to go through this from beginning to end.
http://www.fender.com/support/articles/telecaster-setup-guide/
Step 1- Find a guitar with 'good action' or something you like. If you don't have something available use the profile listed below.
Profile taken from a 'perfect Stratocaster'.
Fret low E string- inches fret to string high E string- inches fret to string
1 0.008 to 0.010 0.008 to 0.010
8 0.035 to 0.040 0.035 to 0.040
12 0.055 to 0.065 0.055 to 0.065
21 0.055 to 0.065 0.055 to 0.065
Step 2- Use an automotive feeler gauge to measure the distance between the strings and the frets. Start with fret 21 and if the distance is larger than .060 then lower the bridge adjustment.
Step 3- Measure the heights at frets 1,8,12 and 21.
Step 4- If the Fret 1 heights are larger than 0.010 then you can loosen the strings and file the nut string notches to lower them. Caution- use proper file and angle and do not over file. If the Fret 1 heights are to low and you have buzzing then you can build up the nut notches with superglue/bone powder or change the nut.
Step 5- If the Fret 8 & 12 heights are to high or to low then:
- Check the truss rod adjustment by putting a straight edge on fret 1 to 16 or higher and there should be a maximum space of about 0.010 +/- 0.002 inches at the low point. Check with manufacturer but a larger space means the truss rod needs to be tightened and less means loosening to make the neck more concave.
- If you have a fixed neck guitar- typical Gibson- stop your own work here. If the neck is not where it needs to be then it may need a reset so find a Luthier with experience with your guitar.
- If the truss rod is OK then you can adjust the neck connection to the body by raising or lowering using a micro-tilt adjustment or shimming the neck pocket. Typical adjustment is to slightly raise the heel to lower the Fret 8 &12 distances. This will also raise the fret 21 so the bridge may need to re-adjusted.
Acoustic
On acoustics the adjustments are limited to the nut, truss rod and bridge.
Step 1- Find a guitar with 'good action' or something you like and measure the profile at frets 1,4,8,15 and 16 (if available).
Step 2- If the Fret 1 heights are larger than 0.010 then you can loosen the strings and file the nut to lower them. Caution- use proper file and angle and do not over file. If the Fret 1 heights are to low and you have buzzing then you can build up the nut notches with superglue/bone powder or change the nut.
Step 3- Check neck relief with a straight edge or string presses on the 1st and 12th or 14th fret. The low point should be 0.004-0.006 for light pickers, jazz musicians and instruments with medium gauge strings at the 7th fret. 0.008- .012 for hard strummers, guitar's strung with extra light gauge strings and fingerboards with a tighter fingerboard radius. Adjust the truss rod if necessary.
For Martin's and most other makes facing the wrench and the body of the guitar you turn clockwise to tighten and reduce relief and counterclockwise to loosen and increase relief. The general rule is 1/4 turn and wait for the guitar to settle in before you adjust any further, I wait overnight.
Step 4 - Raise or lower the bridge to match the desired fret string height at the base of the neck. There are many ways to do this and check the web for proper method based on the type of bridge on the guitar.
A saddle will need to be lowered two times the height you want to lower the strings at the 12th fret.
From Stewmac:
From Stewmac:
String action specs
The suggested measurements listed here refer to the string height at the 1st fret and also at a higher fret. Measured for the outermost bass and treble strings.
Relief
Lay a straightedge across the frets and measure the clearance at the 8th. (Or put a capo at the 1st fret and press a string down at the highest fret — the string becomes the straightedge.) Most acoustics are 0.008 to 0.01 0 inch relief between the fret and string bot can be as low as 0.002.
Suggested action settings
The suggested measurements listed here refer to the string height at the 1st fret and also at a higher fret. Measured for the outermost bass and treble strings.
Relief
Lay a straightedge across the frets and measure the clearance at the 8th. (Or put a capo at the 1st fret and press a string down at the highest fret — the string becomes the straightedge.) Most acoustics are 0.008 to 0.01 0 inch relief between the fret and string bot can be as low as 0.002.
Suggested action settings
Steel-string acoustic guitar | Bass E | Treble E | |||
Action at the 1st fret | .023" | .013" (Gibson .02 E&A, .018 D&G, .016 B&e) | |||
Action at the 12th fret | .090" | .070" (Martin factory spec is listed below) | |||
Relief: .002" at the 8th fret | |||||
Nylon-string acoustic guitar | Bass E | Treble E | |||
Action at the 1st fret | .030" | .024" | |||
Action at the 12th fret | .156" | .125" | |||
Relief: .002" at the 8th fret | |||||
Electric guitar | Bass E | Treble E | |||
Action at the 1st fret | .024" | .010" | |||
Action at the 12th fret | .078" | .063" | |||
Relief: .001" at the 8th fret | |||||
Bass | Bass E | Treble G | |||
Action at the 1st fret | .022" | .020" | |||
Action at the 17th fret | .105" | .094" | |||
Relief: .014" at the 7th fret | |||||
Mandolin | Bass G | Treble E | |||
Action at the 1st fret | .030" | .020" | |||
Action at the 17th fret | .075" | .065" | |||
Relief: .005" at the 6th fret | |||||
Banjo | Bass D | Treble D | |||
Action at the 1st fret | .037" | .035" | |||
Action at the 12th fret | .090" | .090" | |||
Relief: .008" at the 8th fret | |||||
Soprano and Tenor Ukulele | Bass G | Treble A | |||
Action at the 1st fret | .015" | .015" | |||
Action at the 12th fret | .090" | .090" | |||
Relief: .002" at the 12th fret |
Note: Martin factory spec is 4/64s (0.063 inches) on the high E and 6/64s (0.094 inches) on the low E at the 12th fret
Tighten the truss rod, turn the adjusting tool clockwise to straightens up a bowed neck, pulling the peghead away from the tension of the strings. This reduces relief, lowering the string action (height of the strings over the frets). Turn the nut clockwise to tighten the rod.
Neck Relief Adjustment
Check make and model but in most cases:Tighten the truss rod, turn the adjusting tool clockwise to straightens up a bowed neck, pulling the peghead away from the tension of the strings. This reduces relief, lowering the string action (height of the strings over the frets). Turn the nut clockwise to tighten the rod.
String Selection
From Guitar World and highlighted text is for deep/mellow tone:
https://www.guitarworld.com/acoustic-nation/acoustic-nation-10-tips-choosing-right-acoustic-strings-you
Gauge preference
The gauge is the diameter of the string…or how fat it is. The gauge of your strings can really change how the guitar feels when you play, and the sound. Typically lighter gauge strings are easier to play, but can break more easily.Beefier strings can have a fuller tone, can be louder and are harder to break, so if you like to dig in, consider a heavier set.
Here’s a general run down of acoustic string sets:
Extra light: .010 .014 .023 .030 .039 .047
Custom light: .011 .015 .023 .032 .042 .052
Light: .012 .016 .025 .032 .042 .054
Medium: .013 .017 .026 .035 .045 .056
Heavy: .014 .018 .027 .039 .049 .059
Picking a gauge
Body size: Typically a smaller bodied parlor guitar will sound and feel better with lighter gauge strings. While you might want to try a medium or heavy gauge on a larger body or jumbo to take full advantage of their larger sound chamber.
Tone: Heavier gauge strings tend to emphasize the lower end of the guitar’s tonal spectrum while lighter strings are more treble-y and sweet.
Playing style: Are you a fingerpicker, a strummer? Typically lighter gauge strings are easier on the fingertips for pickers and if you’re a heavy strummer, you’ll want heavier strings. If you do both, try a medium set, that have heavier guage on the bottom and lighter on the top.
Instrument age: If you have a vintage instrument, be careful about putting heavier gauge strings on it, as they put more tension on the neck and bridge plate.
Material
I know you probably think a string is a string. But you are wrong! There are several different types of materials that strings are made of, and they can affect the string tone, and longevity.
• Bronze: These are typically constructed of 80 percent copper and 20 percent zinc and are used for all styles of playing. With a clear, bright ringing tone, these strings can age quickly due to bronze’s tendency to oxidize.
• Phosphor Bronze: These are bronze strings with phosphor added. Still bright, but warmer and darker than bronze strings. Phosphor extends the life of these strings versus standard bronze strings.
• Brass: A bright, jangly, metallic sounding string.
• Silk and steel strings: These produce a soft, mellow sound. They offer less tension and come in lighter gauges so they are good for vintage guitars that require special strings. They are quieter and less durable but easier to play.
What about nylon string guitars?
Tension: Classic guitar strings are made in different tensions. These typically consist of low tension also referred to as moderate or light, normal or medium tension, and hard or high tension. Low or light tension are easier to play, but you may get some buzz. Normal or medium tension strings are typlically consistent in tone. Try a few and see what you like.
Materials: Treble nylon guitar strings can be made with clear or rectified nylon. Clear nylon strings are extruded and then calibrated for accuracy. Rectified nylon strings are extruded and then ground to produce a string that will play in tune. They have a very fine roughness of texture. Treble strings are also made of carbon fiber and composite materials. Bass strings are primarily made of bronze wire or silver plated copper wire wound around a core of fine threads.
Coatings and treatments
These days string technology has progressed to offer several additional life-extending options. These can include coated strings, which can sometimes be a bit less bright or have a bit less sustain. But they can last three or four times longer. You can also find strings that have been cryogenically frozen, which seems to lengthen their lifespan without diminishing the tone or sustain.
Changes
So how often should you change your strings? Probably more than you do. I’m always amazed at how gorgeous my guitar sounds with new strings. It always makes me want to change them more often. If you’re playing pretty regularly you might want to change the every week. If you’re an occasional strummer, try once every two months. If you wipe down your guitar and wash your hands before you play, your string tone may last a bit longer.